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Picking Up Stitches

Knitting, crochet, cross stitch and more - the wonderful world of working with wool

Martin Storey

Martin Storey – knitwear designer

July 19, 2018 by Annie 5 Comments
Martin Storey in white cable jumper

Annie Windley speaks to top knitwear designer Martin Storey, who just happens to be an old friend of hers!

Martin Storey and Annie Windley on Rowan stand at Knitting & Stitching Show

Martin Storey and Annie Windley

I love knitting patterns and designs. Always have, since the moment my grandmother taught me how to cast on at the age of 6 and started me on a lifetime of knitting adventures. Over the years, there have been certain designers whose patterns jump out and demand to be made.

So it was that I was immediately drawn to the intricate cabling, glorious colourwork and wearable shapes of certain designs I came across in a Rowan Magazine some years ago.

I was delighted to discover that Martin Storey was the designer, because he and I go back a long way… from before Martin even thought of studying fashion…

We caught up when he visited Crouch End one weekend, and chatted over a coffee or two at Edith’s House Cafe…

Martin Storey cafetier cosy

Martin Storey cafetiere cosy from his book Learn To Knit Arans

Martin Storey – the early days

Like me, Martin learned knitting and needlecraft early.

‘Mrs Cross taught me to knit at infant school when I was about 6. All the boys and girls learnt basic sewing, and cross stitch, too.

‘Our first project was a dishcloth. And I’ve still got the tie-dyed beach bag that I embroidered on at school when I was about 7.’

Again, just like me, Martin went on to knit clothes for Sindy dolls, which were all the rage back then.

Sindy patterns from 70s

Sindy outfits from vintage knitting pattern books

‘The oldest knitted project that I have is from when I was about 9 or 10 – I made an outfit for Sindy’s boyfriend Paul. He’s still got his knitted sweater and trousers!’

SIndy and Paul knitting pattern skiwear

An old Sindy and Paul knitting pattern

And Martin’s kept hold of some of those original patterns.

‘I’ve got various patterns from the 60s and 70s. They almost need framing. I still buy vintage patterns when I find them in second-hand shops, too.‘

vintage Sindy knitting patterns

Vintage dolls knitting patterns

Picking up the knitting again

Martin didn’t continue knitting through his teens, though. At the time we first met, when I was at college in Lincoln in the late 70s, he’d only recently begun knitting again, in mohair – that being the yarn of the moment back then.

At that time, I was going out with one of Martin’s best friends – Jonathan – for whom I’d knitted a special Patricia Roberts tank top covered in grapes and bunches of cherries. I was delighted to hear that this garment seems in some way to have had an influence in Martin’s choice of career direction…

Fruit machine pattern by Patricia Roberts which influenced Martin Storey

Fruit Machine top and jumper by Patricia Roberts

‘It was when I saw the Patricia Roberts Fruit Machine top you’d knitted for Jonathan that I became really interested in her designs and it launched me into serious knitting.

‘I thought, “This is great”.

‘I’ve never had a problem with reading charts and patterns, you see. If you gave me an equation, I wouldn’t have a clue. But with knitting, I can visualise the stitches on the needles and how they work.

‘Before then, all the patterns being published in magazines were mostly just boring shapes, but suddenly there were all these colours, and quirky shapes and textures. Patricia Roberts was a pioneer and her patterns really got me hooked on hand knitting.’

Career choices loom

A career in fashion was still not at the forefront of Martin’s plans for the future.

‘At that time, I didn’t know what I wanted to do. My dad was a pig farmer and a friend of his suggested me getting some experience in an auctioneering firm in Driffield, concentrating on the agricultural side, and markets.

‘I went to auctioneering college, but lasted a term. I came home with my tail between my legs.

‘In the end my parents told me to just come home and work on the farm.

‘But that year, a friend had just started doing a Fine Art course and encouraged me to take up art again. I began an evening A-level art course, but then someone who was studying fashion explained I could apply for a foundation course instead. I went in for an interview with all my knitting and photos of things I’d done, as, at that point, I didn’t even have a portfolio!

‘After explaining to my mum and dad that my heart wasn’t in farming, they gave me their blessing to go to Hull to do the foundation with the view that I’d “get it out of my system”.

‘Unfortunately for them, I didn’t!’

Fashion takes centre stage

‘Even though, by that time, I was 22, and thought I may have left it too late to pursue a career in fashion, I applied to Middlesex to do a fashion degree and got in.

‘I nearly swapped onto the constructive textiles course, which covered knitting, but I’m glad I stayed on the original course, as it taught me to go out and do research and to actually look around, rather than trying to pluck ideas out of the ether.

‘We had quite rigorous training, learning how to illustrate, etc, working quickly, producing collections. I admit, all the projects I did had a knitwear element to them, though. For my final degree show, I showed hand knits as well as sewn garments.’

Martin Storey cushion

Homewear, too – Martin Storey cushion from Learn To Knit Arans

Life after college

By the time he left with his degree, Martin knew he’d like to pursue something knit-related, however, like many new graduates wasn’t sure where to go next.

‘At first, I worked for a costume designer, with a view to maybe working for the BBC. I was also helping my old tutor, who lived nearby, with his Maxfield Parrish design range. His wife was a PR for Fashion Week, and, when I mentioned knitting to her, she suggested a few people to approach.

‘The things you do when you’re young and naïve – I just took a portfolio to Fashion Week and saw a couple of people on their stands. They were very encouraging and liked my work, but didn’t have any vacancies at the time.’

Buoyed by the positive response to his work, the next day, Martin took an important step.

‘I rang Artwork, who were designing knitwear that I liked. I spoke to one of the owners, Patrick Gottelier, and asked if I could bring my portfolio in. He said that their assistant had just handed in her notice and asked, “Can you come in tomorrow?”.

Old Artwork pattern from a Rowan book

Artwork cream jumper in an early Rowan book

 

Luckily they liked my work, so they spoke to my tutor for a reference, and I started the following week!

‘It was just a little chain of events and coincidences, which is what my life’s been like throughout.’

Another introduction

It was through Artwork that Martin was introduced to Rowan.

‘We were using Rowan handknit cotton yarns at Artwork and one of Rowan’s founders, Stephen Sheard, used to come and visit regularly during the development of the indigo yarn that Artwork was known for. He used to talk with me about knitting and told me that if ever I got to the point of going freelance, it would be nice if I could get involved with Rowan. Though I did briefly go freelance, I ended up working for Artwork for 15 years, as they were doing really exciting and unusual handknits.

old rowan knitting book

Artwork was featured in early Rowan books

‘Then, one day, I bought a Drapers Record magazine and Rowan were advertising for designers. By then Stephen was a director. Kate Buller had become the brand manager and was responsible for recruiting.

‘Coincidentally, she lived round the corner from me. She came to have a chat – one of their designers, Louisa Harding, was going on maternity leave and they wanted someone to cover, working on Jaeger hand knits. They agreed that I could work from home, so that’s what I did.’

Martin Storey at Edith's Cafe in Crouch End

Martin Storey at Edith’s House Cafe in Crouch End

 

And that’s who Martin’s been working with since 2001, now, of course, one of their major name designers.

Ordie by Martin Storey knitwear designer

Ordie jumper by Martin Storey knitted by Annie 

Quilt jumper by knitwear designer Martin Storey

Quilt cardigan by Martin Storey knitted by Annie

Design inspiration

This year, it’s Rowan’s Ruby anniversary, and they’re celebrating with a range of events and new and revisited collections, so it’s been a busy time for Martin.

Wrap by Martin Storey

Wrap from Martin Storey’s Easy Aran Knits book modelled by Matin’s niece Harriet

‘When I’m asked to come up with a collection, I often know straightaway what I’m going to do from my research and observation, both out and about and online. It’s really natural, almost subconscious.

‘As I’ve come from fashion where you have to work very quickly, it becomes a way of life. At college we had to come up with a collection every week. It taught me always to have banks of ideas in the background. I’m always observing what people are buying, making, wearing, following trends on the catwalk and out and about.

Martin Storey cable hat

Hat from Martin Storey’s Easy Aran Knits book

‘And I do a lot of vintage research, too, and go back to things and old designs… just like those of Patricia Roberts from all those years ago!’

Martin Storey and niece Harriet

Martin Storey and his niece Harriet modelling two of his designs from his Easy Aran Knits book

Martin’s also been busy writing new books, soon to include a Learn To Knit Arans book and sister publication Easy Aran Knits, published by Berry & Co. And he’s been setting up a lovely new website where you can find his books plus projects using Rowan yarns, upcoming events and more, so do head over and check it out – martinstorey.co.uk

There’s even a free pattern for this gorgeous Chain Cable Wrap…

Chain Cable Wrap by Martin Storey

And, finally, don’t forget, you can also vote for him in the British Knitting & Crochet Awards, where he’s nominated in the Best Knitwear Designer category.

Posted in: inspiration, knitting, knitting patterns Tagged: interview, knitwear designer, Martin Storey

Knitting & Stitching Show at Ally Pally

October 26, 2017 by Annie Leave a Comment

The Knitting & Stitching Show

The Knitting & Stitching Show at Ally Pally (as Alexandra Palace is affectionately known by locals) is one of the highlights of my calendar. For a start, it’s just up the hill from my flat. I can actually see Ally Pally from my bedroom window. There was such a lot to see that I needed every minute I spent at the show. I can’t believe a fortnight has flown by since it opened its doors, but, then again, I’ve been busy since then putting my purchases to good use. Well, that’s my excuse!

The view of the city of London from Ally Pally

The view from Ally Pally – can you spot the Shard?

Meet the designers

One of the great things about the Knitting & Stitching Show is that you always have chance to meet amazing people. For example, on the Lady Sew and Sew stand, where Rowan was based, there were different designers on hand every day.

I loved Dee Hardwicke‘s gorgeous throw covered in intarsia flowers and foliage. Such a lovely person too, and so happy to share her tips on how to go about creating your own designs.

Dee Hardwicke with her throw and book on Rowan stand at Knitting & Stitching Show

Dee Hardwicke

It was also brilliant to say hello again to a friend of mine from my college days. I’m pleased to say that Martin Storey is also one of my favourite designers (I’ve knitted so many of his designs over the years). We had a good old chat, and, of course had our photo taken too!

Martin Storey and Annie Windley on Rowan stand at Knitting & Stitching Show

Martin Storey and me

Animals, monsters and dolls

I love the Toft stand every year. The little characters on display are so appealing. No wonder the stand is always so busy. I’m going to be teaching a class on Toft kits at the Village Haberdashery in West Hampstead in November. Book your place now and you’ll be able to choose your kit from the full range… (and don’t forget I also teach other crochet classes there. Plenty of granny squares classes and more coming up in Crouch End too). I also went to a talk by Kerry, the brand’s founder, and it was fascinating to hear how she came to begin crocheting her characters.

Toft stand at Knitting & Stitching Show with dolls hanging from the top

Toft dolls just hanging about at the show!

Yarn everywhere

Fluffy wool in bright colours

Give us a squeeze!

There is so much to choose from when it comes to yarn, that I had to make sure not to get carried away. You ought to see my yarn stash – don’t need any more, but that never seems to stop me. There’s everything from bargain packs at Black Sheep Wools, to extra chunky yarn at Wool and the Gang, to individually dyed skeins, to hand-spun loveliness, a huge range of colours and textures. You just have to handle yarn, don’t you? Especially when it looks like this…

Patterns to tempt us

If the yarn wasn’t tempting enough, there is no shortage of inspiration on the pattern front. Janie Crow‘s stunning blankets and shawls are intricate delights. I bought a Mexican Diamonds scarf pattern, though who knows when I’ll have the time to start it. There were also crocheted delights on the Stylecraft stand. I do think that a blanket is something to put on my wish list.

Colourful blankets in crochet

Pick a colour!

A beautiful building

The colour wasn’t confined to the products either. Yet another reason to visit the Knitting & Stitching Show is that Alexandra Palace is a beautiful building. and one can’t fail to be impressed by the beautiful stained glass window high on the wall when the sun shines through…

Ally Pally stained glass window

Another craft to take up?

I went to a brilliant talk about selling handmade products by Steffie Stem, one of the owners of The Makerss, who sell cute felting kits. In fact, felted animals seemed to be everywhere. There was an impressive display of Fi Oberon’s work in the Textile Gallery section of the show. Seagulls, penguins, sheep, sheepdogs and more in cute little settings.

Fi Oberon's felted sheepdog

Fi Oberon’s cute characters

If only I had the cash!

You never know what surprises are round the corner. For example, on the way out of the show there was an impressive display of handbags incorporating embroidery, all by hugely influential designers. I particularly liked the cat bag by Vivienne Westwood! A bit beyond my means, though, I think.

Vivienne Westwood cat bag

Get your claws out!

Back home – what did I buy?

Do you remember the blackberry crochet bag I made a few months ago? Well, the Knitting & Stitching Show provided the perfect opportunity to buy some cotton lining to finish it. There were loads of fabric stalls selling fat quarters for patchwork, so there was plenty to choose from, and I snapped up a piece in colours that matched perfectly. Just need to sew it up now.

Crochet blackberry bag and fabric for lining

A bit of everything

It wasn’t just fabric squares that found their way into my shopping bag…

Crochet hooks, wool, twine, magazines and knitting needles

Here’s some more of my haul. Included are a Socks Yeah! pattern book from Coop Knits, a needle threader (to thread beads onto my crochet cotton for my latest wristbands), a new set of Knitpro crochet hooks, a selection of twine and sparkly thread, a copy of Knitting magazine (I actually took up a subscription to The Knitter and was rewarded with a set of Knitpro needles in a handy case, too!), some Sheepjes cotton in a peachy shade, stitch markers, a needle-size tester and some ever-handy stitch holders.

Now I’d better save up quickly as I’m off to the Harrogate show next month! See you there…

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Posted in: craft fair Tagged: alexandra palace, craft show, crochet, crochet classes, dee hardwicke, knitting, Martin Storey, toft

What a lot of projects on the go!

September 20, 2017 by Annie Leave a Comment
FAirisle leaf cardigan pattern picture and starte work

Projects on the go – another started!

I may have lots of projects on the go, but I love leafing through knitting magazines and books. My wish list of all the garments that I’d like to knit myself is a mile long. I’d need to win the Lottery and have at least two lifetimes to complete everything on my list.

Sometimes, though, it has to be done. The yarn is ordered, there’s a day or two of anticipation, then that wonderful moment when the parcel arrives and you open it to see a fresh stash of yarn just waiting to worked into something magical.

So it was the other day, when I ordered this Rico Alpaca Blend Chunky from Loveknitting.com. It arrived just two days later in a sweet gauze bag, together with a boiled sweet (which I couldn’t help but eat before I photographed the yarn!). What a lovely touch!Yarn in gauze bag from Loveknitting.com

The yarn’s for a boxy jacket by Pat Menchini called Style Icon, which I’d had my eye on for autumn’s chilly days. I couldn’t help it but cast on straightaway and was soon well on my way with the right front.

Piece of jacket pattern worked with picture of finished garment

The pattern is in one of my favourite monthly knitting publications – Knitting Magazine – which always has interesting and patterns for the experienced knitter. (You can find more of my favourite magazines, designers and more here.)

 

Sample of knitting from a pattern in Khitting Magazine

It got me thinking though. Every year when the temperature begins to drop, I rush to start a cosy jumper or two… Trouble is, I quite often start a number at the same time, and find that they’re not finished before the weather heats up again. I decided to dig out all my ongoing projects with the aim of finishing them before Christmas. Here we go…

Glacier jumper

This is going to be so warm and snuggly. It’s made using Rowan Brushed Fleece, which knits up really quickly. It’s by one of my favourite designers, Martin Storey (who I’ve known since I was at college).

Pieces of Glacier jumper with picture of it in pattern book

It has big cables that look like links and knits up quickly, so this should be a doddle to finish as I’ve already completed the sleeves, the back and some of the front.

green cabled pieces of Glacier jumper

It’s taken from Rowan Magazine 58. I’ve already got the yarn for the lovely scarf on the front on order too. It’s is going to be a  birthday present for a friend. It’s another Martin Storey design called Windy Scarf in Pure Wool Worsted.

Rowan book containing the Glacier jumper pattern

Ness jumper

A beautiful autumn pattern from Marie Wallin, who always has lovely colour choices in her fairisle designs.

This is worked in Rowan Tweed, Frost and Colourspun, which seem to have been discontinued, so I’m glad I started the jumper when I did. It reminds me of moorland covered in heather…

Part worked piece of Ness jumper with picture of finished garment

I’ve finished the back – here’s a close up of the fairisle pattern at the top.

Close up of fairisle work at top of back of Ness jumper

In fact, I’m well on the way to finishing this one, with the front worked as far as the armholes and both sleeves up to the fairisle too. It’ll be a on the blocking mat before you know it!

Part finished pieces of Ness jumper with pattern book

The Ness jumper is taken from Rowan Magazine Number 56. I’ve just finished Ordie (a Martin Storey design in Rowan Tweed) from the same publication and you can see the finished jumper on my Instagram page here.

The rowan book containing Ness jumper pattern

Alderney cardigan

This cardigan, again designed by Martin Storey is from Rowan Magazine Number 58. It’s made in Alpaca Colour, another Rowan yarn that seems to have been culled when the company was taken over, sadly. It’s really soft, and gently shaded, as you can see from this rib piece that I’ve already worked.

FAirisle leaf cardigan pattern picture and starte work

The pattern is, I think, going to be devilishly difficult to work without complete concentration, so maybe this will still be on the needles next year!

skeins of wool for leaf cardigan with pattern charts

Faux Fox Scarf

Now for something completely different… Sincerely Louise’s Faux Fox Stole caught my eye on her stall at last year’s Knitting & Stitching Show. I’d already seen here Faux Taxidermy heads on display at a local cafe, so I just had to buy the book.

knitted fox legs and book containing fox stole pattern

It’s a very simple knit that I find I can do with my eyes shut – I have been known to take it to the cinema with me and to knit while the film’s on!

Pieces of work for fox stole by Simply Louise

Quilt Cardigan

Finally, barely on my needles, is Quilt. This striking cardigan design from Martin Storey is taken from his fantastic collection Pioneer. I’ve already knitted this in black, grey and cream for my partner David’s birthday a few years ago. At the end there were so many ends to darn in that this version went back in the knitting bag for a bit till I could face the darning again! I’ve made two other garments from this book: Wilderness jumper in Rowan Creative Focus Worsted for me and Frontiersman in Big Wool for David. I’ve definitely got my money’s worth from this publication.

Grey knitting in rib, with balls of yarn and pattern book

I think that’s all, so I’ll let you know how many are done and dusted in a few months’ time. And do let me know how many projects you have on the go at once…

 

 

 

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Posted in: knitting, knitting patterns Tagged: knitting, Marie Wallin, Martin Storey, projects, Rowan

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