inspiration Archives — Picking Up Stitches

Lining the Spring Bag

May 26, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

A lining for your bag

I decided to add a lining to my finished crocheted Spring Granny Square Bag. I’m no expert at sewing, so I thought I’d draw some diagrams which hopefully might help any of you who haven’t done much sewing like me!

And if you haven’t crocheted a bag yet, why not head back and start here.

Choosing the fabric

Luckily I had lots of scraps of fabric in my craft room – collected from working on women’s magazines over the years – there were always lots of samples left over from features that were just too good to throw out!

I decided on a stiff cotton upholstery fabric that held its shape well but wasn’t too stiff and bulky. It’s best to choose something with a bit of substance to help the bag keep its shape – so avoid flimsy or shiny fabrics.

Now I had to work out which way the grainline ran. This is a technical term, I know, but it’s important when cutting out pieces – if you don’t cut along the grainline when making this lining, the fabric may stretch out of shape. The fabric has threads that run both ways if you look carefully – imagine a weaving loom, with some threads going from top to bottom (the warp thread – which is the grainline direction) and the shuttle weaving in and out of these threads from left to right and back again (the weft threads). At each side of the fabric is a selvedge – these are the finished edges down either side that don’t fray – you’ll often find information printed down this edge of the fabric.

The grainline runs up and down the fabric, parallel to the selvedges.

Here’s a picture of the selvedge of the fabric I used. You can see there’s a handy arrow showing the direction of the grainline.

So the grainline is running up and down the length of the fabric.

Now you need to measure your finished bag carefully.

Measure the main square on the front – from side to side (A) and top to bottom (B). Note down these measurements – my bag was exactly square 25cm x 25cm, but it doesn’t matter if yours isn’t, just note down the measurements you have.

Now to these measurements I needed to add extra on each side for the seams – this is called the seam allowance – and extra at the top that would be folded down to create a hem at the top of the bag eventually. I added 1.5cm for the seam allowance to each of the sides, and the bottom, and I added 3.5cm at the top. I needed two pieces this size. The grainline would run from top to bottom (along the dotted line marked B). These front and back pieces would be 28cm x 30cm in my case… (1.5cm + 25cm + 1.5cm wide and 1.5cm + 25cm + 3.5cm top to bottom).

My pattern looked something like this…

Now I measured each side of the gusset – from side to side – the narrow measurement – (C) – and from top to bottom (B) which should be exactly the same size as the side of the main square. Mine measured 5cm across and 25cm from top to bottom. Again, I added 1.5cm to each side and to the bottom and 3.5cm to the top. The grainline would run from top to bottom (line B). So these pieces for me would be 8cm (ie 1.5cm + 5cm + 1.5cm) by 30cm (ie 1.5cm + 25cm + 3.5cm)

Then I measured the gusset at the bottom. The width was the same as before (C) and the length was the same as the bottom of the main square (A). As my square was 25cm wide, this strip was 5cm x 25cm. Again, don’t worry if your bottom piece is not the same as your two sides, just make sure you have the correct measurements for your bag. To this piece I added a seam allowance of 1.5cm on each side. So my final piece was 8cm (ie 1.5cm + 5cm + 1.5cm) by 28cm (ie 1.5cm + 25cm + 1.5cm).

This time the grainline ran along the strip (line A).

Now I just needed to measure the strap. The width (D) and the length (E). Mine measured 6.5cm by 78cm. I added 1.5cm to each long side and 3.5cm to each short end so my strip was 9.5cm (ie 1.5cm +6.5cm + 1.5cm) by 85cm (ie 3.5cm + 78cm + 3.5cm). The grainline ran along the strip (line E)

I carefully cut pieces out of my fabric. If you wanted you could make paper templates first to make sure you have the right sizes and then pin these to your fabric and cut them out.

Next you need to mark two points at the bottom of each main square – this point should be exactly 1.5cm up from the bottom and exactly 1.5cm in from the side. Mark each point clearly on the wrong side of the fabric.

Now finally it was time to start sewing the pieces together! It doesn’t really matter what colour thread you use in your machine as the stitches won’t show.

First place a side gusset piece and a main square right sides together. Make sure you have the wrong side of the main square facing you while you sew so you can see that point you marked. Sew carefully from the top, 1.5cm in from the edge and stop exactly at the marked point.

Now sew the other side gusset piece to the main square in the same way.

*The pieces go in this order and you’ll be sewing along the dotted lines*

Once you’ve sewn two side gusset pieces on, use an iron to press the seam open on the wrong side so it lays flat.

Now take the other main square and sew the strips to this too… You should end up with a tube. Make sure you press the seams open again after you’ve done this.

*Sew the back to one side, then finally sew the back to the final side to make a tube.*

Now this next bit is a little fiddly, so make sure you pin the pieces in place before you sew. Place the bottom of the gusset right sides together with the bottom of one of the main squares and sew along the edge 1.5cm in, starting at a marked point and stopping at the other marked point. Now sew it to the bottom of the other main square. The short ends of this gusset piece are still open at this point.

*You’ll be sewing along the dotted line in each case, first to the front and then to the back*

Now you have another couple of seams to press flat with your iron – and this is getting more fiddly.

Next you need to put the lining flat on the table and carefully pin the short sides. This time, sew really carefully 1.5cm in from the edge, pulling all the extra fabric out of the way as you go, so you don’t accidentally catch any fabric by accident.

You can now carefully trim away a bit of the excess at each of these bottom four corners by cutting diagonally across at each point – make sure you don’t cut too close to the stitches though, as these points on the bag need to be strong as you will be carrying things in the bag eventually.

Now you can slip this lining into the bag to try it out – the right side of the fabric will be visible in the bag, with the wrong side against the crocheted sides of the bag. There should be about 3.5cm sticking out at the top all the way around. Fold the fabric down (wrong side to wrong side).

Now take the lining out again and press the fold.

Next take the strap lining, and pin it to the strap, wrong side to wrong side. Make sure there is 3.5cm overlapping on the inside at each short side. Turn in 1.5cm along each long side and pin then carefully sew along these long sides. You may wish to use your machine (but in this case, choose a suitable colour of sewing thread, as the stitches may be visible), sewing very close to the edge, however I chose to sew by hand, with tiny oversewing stitches.

Now you’re ready to slip the lining back into the bag. This will cover up the overlap from the strap ends. Then carefully sew all the way around the edge – again, I chose to do this by hand.

Here are some close-ups of my bag and lining…

*Here’s the lining sewn to the inside of the strap*

*Here you can see how the gusset lining matches up with the bag and the strap*

I’m really happy with how it turned out, as you can see!

Part 5 of CAL – side strips

May 6, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

Part 5 means there are just these crochet side pieces to make before we start putting some pieces together! If you’ve only just found this page, head back to the start and do Parts 1 (main square rounds 1-6) , Part 2 (rows 7-9), Part 3 (finishing the main square) and Part 4 (small squares) first .. And if you’d prefer the standard written instructions without pictures, head here.

SIDE STRIPS (make 4)

Part 5 explains how to make these strips which will attach to two sides of the square, and as each side of the square is 35 stitches wide, we need to make the strips 35 stitches wide

However, because we don’t use the first chain that we make here, make a foundation chain of 36 chain stitches. You’re now going to be working in rows.

In the first few pictures, I’ve used a lighter colour yarn as it’s easier to see the chain stitches.

Foundation row: On this row, you’re going to ignore the first chain (the one nearest the hook) and start to work along from the second chain.

So work a double crochet in the 2nd chain.

*Work along the chains, putting the hook under a chain and working a dc*

*Here’s the first double crochet in the second chain*

Now work all the way along the chain stitches with a double crochet in each chain stitch.

Fasten off. Do not turn your work.

The next row is a series of stitches, a bit like waves, working from tall stitches down to short stitches and then back up again.

Next Row (starting at same side as the foundation row with right side of work facing you): Join yarn in the first st and work across the stitches on the row below as follows, 4ch [counts as a dtr here] and then (treble,
half treble, double crochet, slip stitch, double crochet, half treble, treble, double treble) now repeat this bit in brackets 3 times more. Then to finish the row work a treble, and a half treble. Fasten off. Do not turn.

*Here the foundation chains and row of double crochet is dark blue – pink 4ch [counts as dtr here], tr, htr, dc, ss*

*And another wave – dc, htr, tr, dtr, tr, htr, dc and ss*

*Here you can see all the waves* *once I’ve finished the row*

The next row has tall stitches on top of short stitches and vice versa, so it turns into an oblong again.

Next row (starting at same side as previous row with right side facing): Join yarn in first stitch [ie the top of the 4ch] with a ss, and work across the stitches on the row below with (dc [in the treble below], htr [in the half treble below], tr [in the double crochet below], dtr [in the slip stitch below], tr [in the double crochet], htr [in the half treble], dc [in the treble], ss [in the double treble]) . Repeat this bit in rounded brackets 3 times, then dc and htr. Fasten off. Do not turn.

Last row (starting at same side as previous row with right side facing): Join yarn in first stitch work 1 chain and then work a double crochet in each st (don’t forget to work one in the first stitch). You should have 35 double crochet stitches. Fasten off.

You need to make four or these (there’ll be one on the left and one on the right of each main square).

Get prepared to complete the bag sides

Before starting on the joining the bits that make up the sides of the bag together, darn in all the ends and block out the 2 main squares, 6 small squares and 4 side strips. If you missed my post about how to do this, it’s here. And here’s a picture of my main squares – the first hasn’t been blocked and the second has – you can definitely see the difference! Make sure you’ve done this tonight and you’ll be ready for

Part 5 completed effect of blocking pieces

If you get stuck or need any advice, just get in touch by email, facebook, instagram or here.

And don’t forget to share your pix on social media #SpringBagCAL

Part 2 of the Spring Crochet-along – next few rounds

April 28, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

Part 2 coming up

It’s Part 2 of the crochet-along. Hopefully, you’ll all have finished Rounds 1-6 on at least one of the main squares (you need two of these to make the bag). Don’t forget you can use any colour on any round, so the two squares don’t actually have to match. If you haven’t made Part 1 (the main squares rows 1-6) yet, head here to catch up. And if you prefer to just follow standard written instructions, head here instead.

We’re going to do three rounds in this part, which turns your circle into a square – magic! By the time you finish these three rounds, your crochet piece should look like this… It won’t necessarily look square yet – don’t worry that’ll happen right at the end when all the pieces are blocked out…

Off we go…

If you just want to follow the standard written instructions you’ll find them here.

For Round 7, first take a look and you will see that there are 8 groups of stitches which form points with groups of double crochet stitches in between. To start with look at the double crochet stitches, and find a space between 2 groups of 2 dc…

Where to start on part 2 of the crochet-along

Round 7: Join yarn in a space between two pairs of double crochet stitches – in the picture below I’m working in a space at the top – and work 3 chain stitches [counts as a treble here],

then in the same space a treble, a double treble, and 2 more trebles.

Now a bit to repeat 7 times – each makes a row of chains plus a ‘fan’: work 2 chain stitches to sit behind the pointy group of stitches (like you did on Round 3),

and in the next space between pairs of double crochets work 2 trebles, a double treble and 2 trebles.

*This is what it looks like at the back*

Once you’ve done all that seven times, work 2 more chain stitches and join with a slip stitch to the 3rd of the chains you did at the beginning. Fasten off.

Round 8 is a bit more complicated, but, don’t worry, I’ll break it down into sections. This is the round where the circle begins to turn into a square.

First, you need to look at a ‘fan’. Find the double crochet in the middle of one of the fans. You will start in the space just before the double treble, next to one of the trebles. Found it? Then you’re good to go for Round 8.

Round 8: First, we’re going to make a corner. Join the yarn in the space before a double treble on a ‘fan’ and work 4 chain stitches [this counts as a double treble here],

now work 2 double trebles in the same space, work 2 chain stitches then work 3 double trebles in next space [between the double treble and the next treble]. This will look like this and forms a corner of the square…

*Next on to one of the chain stitch sections behind the next point – this is where Round 8 attaches to Round 7. [Make sure you’ve noticed that asterisk as you’re going to have to come back to this point a bit further on.] First work a treble in 3-chain space,

*The first treble just goes through the chain space*

then for the next treble, you need to work it through the treble in the middle of point on round 6 – however, instead of inserting your hook through both loops of the treble like you normally would, just put it through the back loop only – then at the same time insert it through the 3-chain space – this is what links the two rounds together,

*Put hook through back loop of the yellow treble and through the pink chain space*

*Here you can see how the stitch joins the two rounds together*

Finally on this section, work a treble just through the 3-chain space.

*The third treble just through the chain space*

Next onto a bit that’ll form the side of the square. You’re going to be working through spaces between stitches on the ‘fan’ again. First work 2 half trebles in the space between first two stitches of the ‘fan’, a double crochet in next space [ie between a treble and the double treble], then 1chain, a double crochet in next space, 2 half trebles in final space on the fan. That’s the side done.

*A chain stitch in the middle then a dc in the next space*

Now work the trebles in the chain space behind the point as before, remembering to link the middle treble.

Now you should be back to the corner, so you’ll work 3 double trebles in the space between the treble and double treble on the fan, then 2 chain stitches, then 3 double trebles in the space between the double treble and the treble.

*Here another set of trebles and another corner is complete*

You’ve completed two corners and one side, so now repeat the whole part again from where I’ve put an asterisk * twice more and you should have all four corners. Now just work another linking section (ie tr, tr through stitch and loop, tr) , a side section (ie 2htr, dc, 1ch,dc, 2htr) and another linking section (ie tr, tr through stitch and loop, tr) and finally join with slip stitch to the fourth of the chain stitches you made at the beginning. Fasten off.

Well done for completing that epic round. You’ve now just one more to go to complete this part of the square. This round consists of groups made up of three treble stitches.

Round 9: You first need to join the yarn in one of the corner spaces and work 3 chain stitches [this counts as a treble], now 2 trebles, 2 chain stitches and 3 trebles – one corner completed.

*For the side, you’re going to work 3 trebles in the space before the next 3 trebles, then 3 trebles in the space before the 2 half trebles, 3 trebles in the 1-chain space, 3 trebles in the space before next 3 trebles, 3 trebles in the next space before the 3 double trebles – you’re now back to a corner, where you’ll work into the 2-chain space in the middle with 3 trebles, 2 chain stitches and 3 trebles. This is that bit in pictures…

Now you need to head back to the asterisk in this round again and work that side and another corner. Repeat this once more. Now you just have one more side left where you work across with groups of three trebles as before. Join with a slip stitch to the third or the chain stitches you made at the beginning. Fasten off.

Just one more part to go and you’ll have finished the main square, so check out Part 3 here.. and keep sharing your pix on social media with the hashtag #springbagCAL

Don’t forget if you get stuck, just get in touch with me on facebook, email or instagram and I’ll try to help.