lockdown crochet Archives — Page 2 of 3

Part 6 of CAL – Completing side sections

May 8, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

This is Part 6. Have you been following along? If so, you’re ready to go. If not, head back and do Parts 1 (main square rounds 1-6) , Part 2 (rows 7-9), Part 3 (finishing the main square) , Part 4 (small squares) and Part 5 (side strips) first. If you prefer to follow standard written instructions instead of the version with lots of pictures, head here.

Once you’ve blocked your main squares, small squares and side strips, you’re ready to begin crocheting the bag’s side pieces together – each side is made up of one main square, three small squares and two side pieces.

Part 6 needs these pieces - a main square, three small squares and two side strips

First you need to crochet three small squares together.

Place two squares, wrong sides together,

and join by working a double crochet through each stitch, catching one loop on each square (the outer loop) for each stitch.

*Just catch the outer loop of each stitch on each square all the way along*

*Here I’m working the first dc after my starting chain stitch*

You can start with 1 chain stitch, but make sure you also work a double crochet in the first stitch before making your way along the side.

You end up with a ridge on the right side.

I chose to do all my joins in the same colour, but it’s entirely up to you what colours you choose.

Now join these two squares to the third square in the same way.

Now make another three-square strip for the other side of the bag.

Next it’s time to join the side strips to the main square.

Place wrong sides together, pinning the long side of a strip to one side of the main square. It’s best if you match each end of the strip to the corners of the square and pin those first, then ease the rest of the strip to fit and pin the middle.

*And this is what it looked like on the back when I’d pinned the strip. You can see the right side of the side strip here and the back of the square*

Now join with double crochets in each stitch all the way along, catching one loop on the main square and one loop on the side strip for each stitch. Now join the other side strip to the other side of the square in the same way.

*The strips are attached – don’t worry if it’s not exactly straight – as long as the edges match at the top and bottom of the square*

Finally join the top strip of three squares to the main square with the side strips attached – they should fit exactly. Place the wrong sides together and pin the corners first, then the mid point, then ease the pieces and pin before you join them – make sure the edges match up.

*Now add a few more pins to keep in place*

*This is what it looks like on the back (ie you can see the front of the small squares*

Now, catching one loop (or bit of edge) on each piece and working in double crochet as before, work all the way across. Bear in mind that for the short edge of the side strip, you won’t be working into the loop on the strip, but into the edge of one of the stitches – as in the following picture.

*Work along the side of the stitches for the short end of the side strip*

Take care when you get to the place where you joined the strip to the main square – be careful not to leave a gap here, even if it means making an extra stitch.

Side looks like this after Part 6 completed

Now complete the other side to match.

These again won’t necessarily look exactly square at this point, but don’t worry, once the finishing touches have been done, it should all look perfect!

In the next part. we’ll be making the gusset of the bag, so you to have the sides completed before you do that to that you make sure you make the gusset the correct length. Find Part 7 here.

Share your photos on social media with the hashtag #SpringBagCAL

Part 5 of CAL – side strips

May 6, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

Part 5 means there are just these crochet side pieces to make before we start putting some pieces together! If you’ve only just found this page, head back to the start and do Parts 1 (main square rounds 1-6) , Part 2 (rows 7-9), Part 3 (finishing the main square) and Part 4 (small squares) first .. And if you’d prefer the standard written instructions without pictures, head here.

SIDE STRIPS (make 4)

Part 5 explains how to make these strips which will attach to two sides of the square, and as each side of the square is 35 stitches wide, we need to make the strips 35 stitches wide

However, because we don’t use the first chain that we make here, make a foundation chain of 36 chain stitches. You’re now going to be working in rows.

In the first few pictures, I’ve used a lighter colour yarn as it’s easier to see the chain stitches.

Foundation row: On this row, you’re going to ignore the first chain (the one nearest the hook) and start to work along from the second chain.

So work a double crochet in the 2nd chain.

*Work along the chains, putting the hook under a chain and working a dc*

*Here’s the first double crochet in the second chain*

Now work all the way along the chain stitches with a double crochet in each chain stitch.

Fasten off. Do not turn your work.

The next row is a series of stitches, a bit like waves, working from tall stitches down to short stitches and then back up again.

Next Row (starting at same side as the foundation row with right side of work facing you): Join yarn in the first st and work across the stitches on the row below as follows, 4ch [counts as a dtr here] and then (treble,
half treble, double crochet, slip stitch, double crochet, half treble, treble, double treble) now repeat this bit in brackets 3 times more. Then to finish the row work a treble, and a half treble. Fasten off. Do not turn.

*Here the foundation chains and row of double crochet is dark blue – pink 4ch [counts as dtr here], tr, htr, dc, ss*

*And another wave – dc, htr, tr, dtr, tr, htr, dc and ss*

*Here you can see all the waves* *once I’ve finished the row*

The next row has tall stitches on top of short stitches and vice versa, so it turns into an oblong again.

Next row (starting at same side as previous row with right side facing): Join yarn in first stitch [ie the top of the 4ch] with a ss, and work across the stitches on the row below with (dc [in the treble below], htr [in the half treble below], tr [in the double crochet below], dtr [in the slip stitch below], tr [in the double crochet], htr [in the half treble], dc [in the treble], ss [in the double treble]) . Repeat this bit in rounded brackets 3 times, then dc and htr. Fasten off. Do not turn.

Last row (starting at same side as previous row with right side facing): Join yarn in first stitch work 1 chain and then work a double crochet in each st (don’t forget to work one in the first stitch). You should have 35 double crochet stitches. Fasten off.

You need to make four or these (there’ll be one on the left and one on the right of each main square).

Get prepared to complete the bag sides

Before starting on the joining the bits that make up the sides of the bag together, darn in all the ends and block out the 2 main squares, 6 small squares and 4 side strips. If you missed my post about how to do this, it’s here. And here’s a picture of my main squares – the first hasn’t been blocked and the second has – you can definitely see the difference! Make sure you’ve done this tonight and you’ll be ready for Part 6.

Part 5 completed effect of blocking pieces

If you get stuck or need any advice, just get in touch by email, facebook, instagram or here.

And don’t forget to share your pix on social media #SpringBagCAL

Part 4 of CAL – the small squares

May 4, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

On to Part 4 – the squares along the top of the square

Part 4 of the crochet-along starts here, but i you’ve just found this page, you can start with these squares, and then go back and do Parts 1 (rows 1-6 of main squares), Part 2 (rows 7-9), and 3 (finishing the main squares) starting here. But if you prefer standard written instructions instead of the version with pictures, head here.

And don’t forget, if you’re still on one of the previous parts, it doesn’t matter – there’s no rush, just take as long as you want!

SMALL SQUARES (make 6)

Round 1: Either make a circle from 4 chain stitches joined with a slip stitch, or start with a magic circle.

*…joined into a circle with a slip stitch*

Now work 3 chain stitches [counts as a half treble and 1 chain], then work (htr, 1ch) seven times, and join with ss to the 3rd chain at the start.

*Working the first round starting with the chain ring*

*Here’s the half trebles worked into a magic circle*

Fasten off. You should now have a circle of spokes – like the beginning of the main square, but a bit smaller.

Round 2: Join yarn into a space with a ss, (work 3ch, then slip stitch into the next space) 7 times,

*Here’s the start with 3ch and a ss into the next space*

another 3ch, and join with ss to the first stitch. Fasten off. It should look like this…

Round 3: Join yarn in a chain space on Round 1, work 1 chain stitch [counts as a double crochet],

*Make sure you work through Round 1 (the pink round here)*

(work 2ch, then a double crochet in next sp on Round 1) 7 times – you’ll have a stitch of the current round sitting next to a stitch from round 2 – here’s the first one done.

Finally 2 chain stitches, join with ss to the 1st chain. Fasten off. It should look like this…

Round 4: Join yarn in a 2-chain space and work (3ch [counts as a treble here] 2tr, 2ch, 3tr),

* in the next 2ch-sp, work 3 half trebles,

then in the next 2ch-sp work (3tr, 2ch, 3tr).

Now go back to the asterisk and repeat from the * twice – you should now have three sides and four corners completed, so just work 3htr in the next 2ch-sp, and join with ss to the third chain. Fasten off. Here’s what that looks like when the round’s finished.

Nearly there – just two rounds to go

Round 5: Join yarn in a corner space and work (3ch [counts as dc and 2ch] plus another dc),

*now work (2ch, double crochet in next space between groups of trebles) twice, [NB these groups of three trebles are quite close together, so make sure you’re working between the groups] then 2ch, dc into the corner space, 2ch and a dc in the same corner space – it should look like this…

Repeat from the asterisk twice, then to finish the round (2ch, and dc in next sp) twice, and finally 2ch, and join with ss to the first ch. Fasten off. Here’s the completed round.

Last round coming up…

Round 6: Join yarn in a corner space and work (2ch [counts as a dc, plus 1ch], then another dc),

then * (a double crochet in the next stitch, then 2dc in the 2-chain space) this bit in brackets needs doing 3 times,

*Remember to work through the top of the dc from the previous round – here’s where the hook goes*

*And this is what the double crochet looks like when it’s done*

*And again, remember to work in the double crochet*

Once you’ve done that bit 3 times, you’re up to the corner, so work a double crochet in the next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in the corner sp.

*This is what it looks like when one side and two corners are complete*

Now go back and repeat from * twice. Now to finish, work (1dc in next st, 2dc in next sp) 3 times, and 1dc in next st, and finally join with ss to first ch. Fasten off.

The finished small square looks like this…

The final row of a square - Part 4 of the CAL

You can vary the colours as you like! I’ve chosen to do the final round in the same colour as the final round of the main square, but it’s entirely up to you! You need to make six of these squares – that’s 3 for each side of the bag.

Part 4 of the CAL is the small squares for the bag sides three per side

Don’t forget, you need to make 6 of these squares altogether, so get crocheting . Ready for Part 5? Part 5 is here

Share your photos on social media with the hashtag #SpringBagCAL

And if you get stuck – get in touch by email, facebook, instagram or twitter and I’ll try to help.