lockdown project Archives — Picking Up Stitches

Lining the Spring Bag

May 26, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

A lining for your bag

I decided to add a lining to my finished crocheted Spring Granny Square Bag. I’m no expert at sewing, so I thought I’d draw some diagrams which hopefully might help any of you who haven’t done much sewing like me!

And if you haven’t crocheted a bag yet, why not head back and start here.

Choosing the fabric

Luckily I had lots of scraps of fabric in my craft room – collected from working on women’s magazines over the years – there were always lots of samples left over from features that were just too good to throw out!

I decided on a stiff cotton upholstery fabric that held its shape well but wasn’t too stiff and bulky. It’s best to choose something with a bit of substance to help the bag keep its shape – so avoid flimsy or shiny fabrics.

Now I had to work out which way the grainline ran. This is a technical term, I know, but it’s important when cutting out pieces – if you don’t cut along the grainline when making this lining, the fabric may stretch out of shape. The fabric has threads that run both ways if you look carefully – imagine a weaving loom, with some threads going from top to bottom (the warp thread – which is the grainline direction) and the shuttle weaving in and out of these threads from left to right and back again (the weft threads). At each side of the fabric is a selvedge – these are the finished edges down either side that don’t fray – you’ll often find information printed down this edge of the fabric.

The grainline runs up and down the fabric, parallel to the selvedges.

Here’s a picture of the selvedge of the fabric I used. You can see there’s a handy arrow showing the direction of the grainline.

So the grainline is running up and down the length of the fabric.

Now you need to measure your finished bag carefully.

Measure the main square on the front – from side to side (A) and top to bottom (B). Note down these measurements – my bag was exactly square 25cm x 25cm, but it doesn’t matter if yours isn’t, just note down the measurements you have.

Now to these measurements I needed to add extra on each side for the seams – this is called the seam allowance – and extra at the top that would be folded down to create a hem at the top of the bag eventually. I added 1.5cm for the seam allowance to each of the sides, and the bottom, and I added 3.5cm at the top. I needed two pieces this size. The grainline would run from top to bottom (along the dotted line marked B). These front and back pieces would be 28cm x 30cm in my case… (1.5cm + 25cm + 1.5cm wide and 1.5cm + 25cm + 3.5cm top to bottom).

My pattern looked something like this…

Now I measured each side of the gusset – from side to side – the narrow measurement – (C) – and from top to bottom (B) which should be exactly the same size as the side of the main square. Mine measured 5cm across and 25cm from top to bottom. Again, I added 1.5cm to each side and to the bottom and 3.5cm to the top. The grainline would run from top to bottom (line B). So these pieces for me would be 8cm (ie 1.5cm + 5cm + 1.5cm) by 30cm (ie 1.5cm + 25cm + 3.5cm)

Then I measured the gusset at the bottom. The width was the same as before (C) and the length was the same as the bottom of the main square (A). As my square was 25cm wide, this strip was 5cm x 25cm. Again, don’t worry if your bottom piece is not the same as your two sides, just make sure you have the correct measurements for your bag. To this piece I added a seam allowance of 1.5cm on each side. So my final piece was 8cm (ie 1.5cm + 5cm + 1.5cm) by 28cm (ie 1.5cm + 25cm + 1.5cm).

This time the grainline ran along the strip (line A).

Now I just needed to measure the strap. The width (D) and the length (E). Mine measured 6.5cm by 78cm. I added 1.5cm to each long side and 3.5cm to each short end so my strip was 9.5cm (ie 1.5cm +6.5cm + 1.5cm) by 85cm (ie 3.5cm + 78cm + 3.5cm). The grainline ran along the strip (line E)

I carefully cut pieces out of my fabric. If you wanted you could make paper templates first to make sure you have the right sizes and then pin these to your fabric and cut them out.

Next you need to mark two points at the bottom of each main square – this point should be exactly 1.5cm up from the bottom and exactly 1.5cm in from the side. Mark each point clearly on the wrong side of the fabric.

Now finally it was time to start sewing the pieces together! It doesn’t really matter what colour thread you use in your machine as the stitches won’t show.

First place a side gusset piece and a main square right sides together. Make sure you have the wrong side of the main square facing you while you sew so you can see that point you marked. Sew carefully from the top, 1.5cm in from the edge and stop exactly at the marked point.

Now sew the other side gusset piece to the main square in the same way.

*The pieces go in this order and you’ll be sewing along the dotted lines*

Once you’ve sewn two side gusset pieces on, use an iron to press the seam open on the wrong side so it lays flat.

Now take the other main square and sew the strips to this too… You should end up with a tube. Make sure you press the seams open again after you’ve done this.

*Sew the back to one side, then finally sew the back to the final side to make a tube.*

Now this next bit is a little fiddly, so make sure you pin the pieces in place before you sew. Place the bottom of the gusset right sides together with the bottom of one of the main squares and sew along the edge 1.5cm in, starting at a marked point and stopping at the other marked point. Now sew it to the bottom of the other main square. The short ends of this gusset piece are still open at this point.

*You’ll be sewing along the dotted line in each case, first to the front and then to the back*

Now you have another couple of seams to press flat with your iron – and this is getting more fiddly.

Next you need to put the lining flat on the table and carefully pin the short sides. This time, sew really carefully 1.5cm in from the edge, pulling all the extra fabric out of the way as you go, so you don’t accidentally catch any fabric by accident.

You can now carefully trim away a bit of the excess at each of these bottom four corners by cutting diagonally across at each point – make sure you don’t cut too close to the stitches though, as these points on the bag need to be strong as you will be carrying things in the bag eventually.

Now you can slip this lining into the bag to try it out – the right side of the fabric will be visible in the bag, with the wrong side against the crocheted sides of the bag. There should be about 3.5cm sticking out at the top all the way around. Fold the fabric down (wrong side to wrong side).

Now take the lining out again and press the fold.

Next take the strap lining, and pin it to the strap, wrong side to wrong side. Make sure there is 3.5cm overlapping on the inside at each short side. Turn in 1.5cm along each long side and pin then carefully sew along these long sides. You may wish to use your machine (but in this case, choose a suitable colour of sewing thread, as the stitches may be visible), sewing very close to the edge, however I chose to sew by hand, with tiny oversewing stitches.

Now you’re ready to slip the lining back into the bag. This will cover up the overlap from the strap ends. Then carefully sew all the way around the edge – again, I chose to do this by hand.

Here are some close-ups of my bag and lining…

*Here’s the lining sewn to the inside of the strap*

*Here you can see how the gusset lining matches up with the bag and the strap*

I’m really happy with how it turned out, as you can see!

Part 9 of CAL – finishing the bag

May 15, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

Part 9 – the last part is here! If you’ve only just found my blog, don’t worry, head back and do, Parts 1 (main square rounds 1-6) , Part 2 (rows 7-9), Part 3 (finishing the main square) , Part 4 (small squares) , Part 5 (side strips) , Part 6 (finishing the sides) , Part 7 (gusset) and Part 8 ( strap squares) first. And if you prefer standard written instructions, head here.

PART 9 ATTACH THE STRAP AND FINISHING TOUCHES

Attaching the strap

First we’re going to attach the main bit of the bag to the strap and edge the strap. First, position one of the short edges of the strap next to the end of the gusset with wrong sides together, and strap facing you.

Then, starting at the corner, work across the end of the strap and the gusset in double crochet catching one loop from each side for each stitch as before.

*Double crochet across the gusset and strap end*

At the corner, turn your work

*Here I’ve turned the work and am starting to work along the side of the strap*

and with the right side of the strap still facing you, work all the way along the edge of the strap. You’ll be working 1dc each corner space of a small square and 1dc in each stitch until you get to the end of the strap – so for each square, that’s one dc in the corner space, 9dc in stitches along the edge of the square and one dc in the corner space.

*Here’s the side of one square completed*

Now position the short end of the strap against the gusset, again with wrong sides together and the strap still facing you,

*One side of the strap completed, turned again and ready to dc the other short end* to the gusset

work across short side and the gusset, then along the other edge of the strap as before. Join with ss to first st. Fasten off.

Final touch!

Finally, edge the tops of the sides by joining yarn in corner sp of gusset and with right side of bag facing, work in dc across the top edge (ie along the top of the small squares), finishing with a dc in the space on the gusset again. Complete other top edge to match.

*Start in the corner and make sure it’s secured to the gusset corner too*

*Once the ends have been sewn, the bag’s finished*

Ta-da! You have your spring bag!

Your bag is ready to go, but if you like, you could add a lining. There are instructions how to do this here.

I hope you’ve enjoyed following along and maybe learned some new techniques along the way. If you’ve made a bag, please send me a photo, or share one in the comments here, or post it on my Picking Up Stitches facebook page as I’d love to see them.

Part 1 Crochet-along for Spring

April 27, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

Welcome to my spring crochet-along! As you know from my previous blog post, I’ve been designing a granny square bag.
During lockdown in the UK, I’ve been finalising the pattern and now that our lockdown has been extended, I thought I’d publish it in sections, so that everyone can complete the Crochet-along with me, and have a bag by the time we’re allowed out again! If you’re an experienced crocheter and just want to head straight to the standard written pattern, head here but if you’d like to know a bit about the bag first, or if you’re less experienced or you’d like more detailed instructions with pictures, read on…

Construction and materials

The bag is made up of two large squares, 6 smaller squares, two side strips, a long strip for the gusset and a number of small squares for the handle…

Here’s the first one I made…

You can make it in any DK yarn – I’ve done versions in Deramores Studio DK which is now available from Lovecrafts.com – there are some lovely bright and jewel-like colours in their range, and it’s not expensive either.

A range of Deramores Studio DK yarn for the crochet-along

Here’s a selection of the Deramores yarn in more muted colours.

Subtle colours of Deramores Studio DK yarn

Or how about making it in really zingy colours, like these from the Stylecraft DK range? You can find a wide selection of colour packs of Stylecraft from lincolnwoolpack.co.uk which works out even cheaper.

I’ve also made it in the gorgeous Erika Knight Gossypium cotton, so soft and in lovely, muted colours. I just happened to have a range of colours in my stash, and was pleased to finally find a use for them – this is what was left after I’d made the bag.

This is what my second version turned out like…

I eventually decided to go with a crochet hook a size smaller than I normally use for DK – 3mm – from my favourite Knitpro Waves hook set. This gave a firmer texture to the pieces, and gave the bag a bit more structure. You may find that the yarn you choose may work better with a 3.5mm hook – either is fine.

In the cotton on the smaller hook, I used six colours, with each using under 50g, though you can use as many or as few colours as you like. Even using a slightly larger hook and the Deramores DK, the project still used under 200g in total.

Making a start on the crochet-along

First of all, I’ll explain all the abbreviations that will be used in the pattern. All instructions are in UK terminology. Don’t forget, if you’d prefer just to follow the standard written instructions, you’ll find those here .

Crochet-along Abbreviations

Don’t forget, you start with a slip knot to make the first loop on your hook. See here if you’re not sure how to make one.

Also, when joining in a new colour, simply put your hook through the space or stitch indicated wrap the yarn round the hook at the back of the work, then bring the hook to the front, and work 1 chain stitch [doesn’t count as one of your stitches] to anchor the new yarn. If you can, try to work over the ends of the yarn as you join each new colour in, and there’ll be a lot fewer ends to darn in later. Now you’re ready to follow the instructions for the round.

ch = chain stitch – the basic stitch which looks exactly like its name. Just yarn over and pull through the loop – voila – one chain stitch!
dc = double crochet – for this you insert your hook through the top of the stitch on the row below or through a chain space as instructed in the pattern, yarn over and bring the hook back to the front (2 loops on hook), yarn over and draw it through both loops.
htr = half treble – for this you need to put the yarn over the hook before you insert it through the top of a stitch on the row below or into a space, then yarn over and bring the hook back to the front (3 loops on hook), now yarn over and draw it through all three loops at once.
tr = treble – this one is slightly taller than the half treble. Put yarn over the hook, insert it though the top of a stitch or a into a space, yarn over and bring the hook back to the front (3 loops) – this time yarn over and draw it through the first 2 loops, yarn over again and draw it through the remaining 2 loops.
dtr = double treble – guess what! This is even taller than the treble – yarn over the hook twice, hook through top of stitch or into space, yarn over and bring hook back to the front (4 loops on hook), yarn over and through 2 loops, yarn over and through the next 2 loops, finally yarn over and through the remaining 2 loops. Phew!

Here’s a picture so you can see the different heights of the stitches – double crochet in red, half treble in yellow, treble in dark teal and double treble in pink.

tr2tog = treble 2 together – yarn over, hook through stitch or into space and yarn over, bring hook back to front (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and hook through stitch or chain space as directed, bring hook back to front again (4 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 3 loops, leaving just one loop on hook.
3tr-cluster = 3 treble cluster – the most complicated one, but not difficult if you follow the steps. Yarn over, hook through stitch or into chain space and yarn over, bring hook back to front (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and hook through same stitch or chain space as before, bring hook back to front again (4 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over, hook through same stitch or chain space, yarn over and bring hook back to the front again (5 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (4 loops on hook), finally yarn over and draw through all 4 loops, so you’re back to 1 loop.
rem = remaining – this is easier and self explanatory.
sp = space – so is this, but it could refer to a ch-sp ie a space created by one or more chain stitches on the row below, or it could be through the space between two stitches on the row below. It’ll tell you which in the pattern.
ss = slip stitch – finally, slip stitch which is a useful joining stitch at the end of rows, or sometimes helps to create shapes like the petals. Just put your hook through a stitch or into a space, yarn over and bring the hook back to the front and straight through the loop on your hook.

Just a quick note, it’s useful if you know how to start using a magic circle, however if you don’t, you can work a few chain stitches and join them into a circle with a slip stitch. The magic circle works best, though, as you can tighten up the centre of the motif…

Here’s what the first round looks like with circle of 4 chain stitches to start, and with a magic circle… You can see the magic circle can be tightened up in the middle, so there is no hole.

So, let’s pick up our hooks and get going. And don’t forget, if you get stuck at any point, just get in touch with me by email on facebook or instagram or in a comment here, and I’ll try to help you.

Here we go

We’ll make a start on the main square which actually starts off as a circle! It doesn’t turn into a square until Round 7 so today, you’ll end up with a circle. For this first part of the crochet along, we’ll just work up to Round 6, and you can make two of these circles – they don’t even have to match if you don’t want them to – that way your bag will look different depending on which side you choose to have facing outwards. Don’t forget, if you just want the pattern in normal crochet terminology, see here.

MAIN SQUARE (you’ll need to make 2 of these)

Round 1: If you don’t know how to do a magic circle, make 5 chain stitches and join them into a ring with a slip stitch.

*To start with a circle, make 5 chain and turn it into a circle with a slip stitch in the first chain*

Or start with a magic circle… Now work 4 chain stitches [this counts as a treble stitch plus 1 chain stitch].

*Here’s the first four chain of the round*

Now working into the centre of the ring or the magic circle, whichever you’re using, work 1 treble and
1 chain seven times, and join with a slip stitch to the third of the chain stitches you made at the beginning.

*Make sure you work through the circle rather than into the stitches*

*Now do another treble and a chain stitch*

*This is what it looks like at the end of the round*

Fasten off this colour. You now have a circle of trebles with a space between each – almost like a wheel with 8 spokes, though the spokes will only become much more apparent after you make the next round…

Now to make the petals…

Round 2: Join the next colour of yarn into one of the one-chain spaces, and work 2 chain stitches, then in the same one-chain space work 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 treble, and 2 chain stitches and slip stitch into the space again – you should now have one petal. Work one chain stitch. Here’s that bit broken down in pictures…

Now make a petal in the next space as before – ss, 2ch, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 2ch, ss into same 1ch-sp, and finish with 1ch – repeat this 6 times more, then make one last chain and slip stitch into the initial space, right next to the first petal. You should have ended up with 8 petals. You should now also see the wheel with spokes effect! Do not fasten off here.

Round 3: Continue in the same colour and make 3 chain stitches – these now have to sit behind the petal, and then make a double crochet in the 1-chain space between this petal and the next. It may be easier if you bend the petal forwards each time so that you can see what you’re doing. Repeat this seven times more, then join with a slip stitch to the first chain you made and you should end up with 8 petals in a circle. Fasten off this colour.

(I’m actually using a different colour in the following picture and have turned the motif round after I finished the round, so that you can see where the chain stitches sit – this is the back of the motif).

Round 4: Join a new colour of yarn into one of the 3-chain spaces, and work 3 chain stitches – which counts as a treble stitch here,

*To start with it’s 3ch to count as a tr*

now treble 2 stitches together (see the abbreviations if you don’t know how to do this),

*This is how it looks* *after the first part of the tr2tog – 2 loops on hook*

*And after the second part of the tr2tog – 3 loops on hook*

*Finishing the tr2 tog by drawing the hook through all three loops*

work 2 chain stitches then a 3treble-cluster (again, instructions above in the abbreviations),

*After third part of the 3tr-cluster with 4 loops on the hook*

*And now how it looks when you draw the hook through all 4 loops*

*1 chain stitch, then in next 3-chain space, work a 3tr-cluster, 2ch, 3tr-cluster. Now repeat from the * 6 times, finally finishing with 1 chain and a slip stitch to the 3rd chain you made at the beginning of the round. Fasten off.

It should look like this…

*Here’s the finished round showing a 3tr cluster, a 2ch sp and a 1ch sp*

Now for two more rounds…

Round 5: Join yarn in one of the 2-chain spaces [the 2-chain space is the one between 2 treble clusters] and work 4 chain stitches [this counts as a double crochet and 3 chain stitches] , then a dc in the same space. Now a bit that you need to repeat seven times: work 2 chain, double crochet in the 1-chain sp, 2 chain, double crochet in next 2-chain space, 3 chain, double crochet in the same 2-chain space. Once you’ve done all that seven times, to finish off the round, work 2 chain, a double crochet in the 1-chain space, 2 chain, then finally join with a slip stitch to the first chain you made. Fasten off.

*Here’s dc, 2ch,dc which forms the pointy bit, then 2ch and a dc in the 1ch sp and 2ch more.*

*This is what your round should look like at the end*

Round 6: Join yarn in a 3-chain space [ie one of the pointy bits] and work 1 chain [counts as a dc], a half treble, a treble, a half treble and a double crochet.

*This is one of the pointy bits created by working dc, tr, dtr, tr, dc*

Now a bit to repeat seven times: work 2 double crochet in the next 2-chain space, and 2dc in the next 2ch-sp, in next 3-chain space, work a double crochet, a half treble, a treble, a half treble, a double crochet. After you’ve done all this 7 times work 2 double crochet in the next 2-chain space, and 2dc in the next 2ch-sp. Now join with a slip stitch to the first chain. Fasten off.

*The completed first part of the CAL should look like this*

That’s it for this part. So get going with your crochet hook today! And now see here for Part 2.

And don’t forget to use the tag #springbagCAL on instagram or facebook to share your version